Bosphorus ferry trip
The stops:

• Eminönü (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
• Beşiktaş (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
• Kanlıca (Middle Bosphorus, Asian shore) At this stop you can either get off or staying on purchase special Kanlica yogurt from the vendor who gets on the ferry here. it comes with a spoon and a packet of sugar.
• Yeniköy (Middle Bosphorus, European shore)
• Sarıyer (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
• Rumeli Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
• Anadolu Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, Asian shore)

You must get off the ferry in Anadolu Kavağı, the last harbor before the Black Sea. Once off the boat and into the narrow streets there is a lot of “lady, you want some ice cream, lady, nice cafe, lady, eat fish here” the last which I did. Bosphorus sardines on the banks of the river.

The other thing to do here is walk up the steep hill in the blazing sun to the fortress at the top where you can see the end of the Bosphorus where it meets the Black Sea. There were lots of dogs along the way and at the top, strays maybe, some would escort you within the invisible boundaries of their domains, the puppies that frolicked in the cemetery stopped chewing each others ears to bark at me except for one who just looked at me sweetly. At the top of the hill I let sleeping dogs lie and looked out over the blue blue sea.

Hot tea on the ferry ride back to Kadikoy. The sun comes out just to go down, but paints the sky and the water with all sorts of colors as it goes down.  I walk along the river’s edge until I see the red umbrellas high up on the hill that tell me to climb the hill to find the street where I stay.