Category Archives: Travel

Le café des rêves


A photographic portrait of my favorite place in Vienna. Where I plotted and planned and polished off two Cesar Aira books, an inbox of emails, a healthy number of kleiner and grosser mochas, a good amount of cake, and other noshes of equally high merit. My last evening was spent sitting outside eating a sandwich with a fried egg on top with the other beer, wine and spritz drinkers in the last light and brisk wind and the end of a long hot day. Continue reading

Hammam

 

This morning I met some fellow school mates who have moved here.  Drank a lot of Turkish Coffee.  Bought Simits, a sort of round pretzel, for the journey tomorrow, as well as peanuts coated with sesame seeds and locum wrapped in rose petals. Trawled a few shops for old photos, the best being a shot of a submarine on the Bosphorus. Continue reading

Along the Bosphorus

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Bosphorus ferry trip
The stops:
starts at Eminönü (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
Beşiktaş (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
Kanlıca (Middle Bosphorus, Asian shore) At this stop you can either get off or staying on purchase special Kanlica yogurt from the vendor who gets on the ferry here. it comes with a spoon and a packet of sugar.
Yeniköy (Middle Bosphorus, European shore)
Sarıyer (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
Rumeli Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
Anadolu Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, Asian shore) Continue reading

Breakfast in the rain and other tourist attractions

Hagia Sofia

Turkish breakfast anyway outside in the rain – the vine leaves dripped, the snails climbed the walls, the cats made beds of the seat cushions. Best bit: honey with some sort of clotted cream, there were also baked eggs, olives, different cheeses, tomatoes and cucumbers, sesame spread, yogurt stuff of some sort, a bunch of things I am now forgetting as well as bread and tea of course. Continue reading

Sounds of Istanbul

Afternoon arrival in Istanbul, ferry to Kadıköy from Bakirkoy Fast Ferry Dock. waited out the sudden storm at the dock then dragged my bags up and up the hill. Terrific lunch with Arde and Hande: outside mezze, kebaps, raki and sun over all.

Well needed nap under a warm siamese cat listening to passersby, the crying of the neighbors child, the warning yowls of feral cats, the cawing of crows and the screams of seagulls which seem to circle and return announcing what I do not know, the arrival of the ferry? the passing of the hour?

Walking home from the store with Hande heard the sounds of solidarity echo through the streets at 9 pm. Saw women leaning out of their windows, young and old chanting in the streets, students outside a bar set off fireworks, a father holds a metal stew pot for his four year old son to bang with a wooden spoon.
This is the sound of the pots and pan symphony with the protesters which deafens one in the streets each night at nine. This is recorded from inside the apartment.

In the art kitchen

A remarkable woman Maria, last name Popova, like the Russian artist. she has long black hair, a long black skirt to her ankles, petite, rib cage bird cage, delicate and elegant, smoking cigarette after cigarette through a wooden cigarette holder as she lounges in the open window of the ICA kitchen. I lean against the counter Continue reading

Rila

Rila MonasteryTrip to Rila. A large van with driver, a Slovakian woman studying German in Sofia, a middle aged Australian woman with her possibly Greek husband, a American couple in a bubble with their Lands-end clothing, backpack, bellypack, tennis shoes. they had traveled many places already on this trip and so bubblefied said rude things in English forgetting or not caring that anyone else might understand. for some reason both couples seem adverse to making any sort of conversation with us, the two women on their own, even eye contact was avoided.

Rila is all stripes, Continue reading