Along the Bosphorus

June 15, 2013

Bosphorus ferry trip
The stops:
starts at Eminönü (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
Beşiktaş (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
Kanlıca (Middle Bosphorus, Asian shore) At this stop you can either get off or staying on purchase special Kanlica yogurt from the vendor who gets on the ferry here. it comes with a spoon and a packet of sugar.
Yeniköy (Middle Bosphorus, European shore)
Sarıyer (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
Rumeli Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
Anadolu Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, Asian shore) continue…

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Breakfast in the rain and other tourist attractions

June 14, 2013

Hagia Sofia

Turkish breakfast anyway outside in the rain – the vine leaves dripped, the snails climbed the walls, the cats made beds of the seat cushions. Best bit: honey with some sort of clotted cream, there were also baked eggs, olives, different cheeses, tomatoes and cucumbers, sesame spread, yogurt stuff of some sort, a bunch of things I am now forgetting as well as bread and tea of course. continue…

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Sounds of Istanbul

June 13, 2013

Afternoon arrival in Istanbul, ferry to Kadıköy from Bakirkoy Fast Ferry Dock. waited out the sudden storm at the dock then dragged my bags up and up the hill. Terrific lunch with Arde and Hande: outside mezze, kebaps, raki and sun over all.

Well needed nap under a warm siamese cat listening to passersby, the crying of the neighbors child, the warning yowls of feral cats, the cawing of crows and the screams of seagulls which seem to circle and return announcing what I do not know, the arrival of the ferry? the passing of the hour?

Walking home from the store with Hande heard the sounds of solidarity echo through the streets at 9 pm. Saw women leaning out of their windows, young and old chanting in the streets, students outside a bar set off fireworks, a father holds a metal stew pot for his four year old son to bang with a wooden spoon.
This is the sound of the pots and pan symphony with the protesters which deafens one in the streets each night at nine. This is recorded from inside the apartment.

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Postcard from Bulgaria

June 12, 2013

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In the art kitchen

A remarkable woman Maria, last name Popova, like the Russian artist. she has long black hair, a long black skirt to her ankles, petite, rib cage bird cage, delicate and elegant, smoking cigarette after cigarette through a wooden cigarette holder as she lounges in the open window of the ICA kitchen. I lean against the counter continue…

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June 11, 2013

Rila MonasteryTrip to Rila. A large van with driver, a Slovakian woman studying German in Sofia, a middle aged Australian woman with her possibly Greek husband, a American couple in a bubble with their Lands-end clothing, backpack, bellypack, tennis shoes. they had traveled many places already on this trip and so bubblefied said rude things in English forgetting or not caring that anyone else might understand. for some reason both couples seem adverse to making any sort of conversation with us, the two women on their own, even eye contact was avoided.

Rila is all stripes, continue…

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The door you closed to me

June 10, 2013

The Bulgarian countryside is very dramatic. Went to a fabulous church in the mountains today. continue…

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A lesson in sleep

There is a book by the Austrian writer Gert Jonke where the main character begins to commune with the statues of Vienna, they ask him: what is this thing, sleep? And so he shows them; he sleeps for hours, days months… the statues watch. it evidently was based on a period of his own life that he slept through, taking sleeping pills etc day after day. continue…

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Vitoshka lies in the sun

June 09, 2013

A day of catching up with a long walk along the promenade with the rest of Sofia on a Sunday afternoon. Mount Vitoshka, a big slumbering blue ahead of me as I go in search of the 13 Hundred Years Monument. it also fell victim to badly mixed concrete and is mainly armature now and bears a nickname that makes those who know it giggle and claim they cannot tell me what it means, but this it is nicknamed continue…

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The theater and its double

Saturday in Plovdiv: art festival, cobblestones, Armenian food, churches, mosque, cats, stray dog, and brides everywhere. In the ancient Roman theater a bride poses both for camera and video, her image enlarged and projected in the center screen like an enormous gladiator queen.





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